These are my stories as a volunteer member of the Sheriff's Search and Rescue team in Coconino County, Arizona. I'll share what it's like to go from a beginner with a lot to learn to an experienced and, hopefully, valuable member of the team, as well as the missions, training, and other activities along the way.
About Coconino County
About Coconino County
Encompassing 18,661 square miles, Coconino County, Arizona, is the second largest county in the U.S. but one of the least populated. Our county includes Grand Canyon National Park, the Navajo, Havasupai, Hualapai and Hopi Indian Reservations, and the largest contiguous ponderosa pine forest in the world. Elevations range from 2,000 feet above sea level along the Colorado River to 12,633 feet at the summit of Mt. Humphreys in Flagstaff.
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Nepal Update: Random Commentary and More People Pics
And another tip: When you blow your nose after a day of wandering or driving around the city, don't inspect the tissue. It really is better not to know.
People don't just clear their throats here. They dig deep, seeing how much gunk they can remove from their esophaguses (esophagi?) and nasal passages in one fell swoop and deposit in the street. I just heard one such a clearing from my hotel room.
When you ride on the back of a motor bike around Nepal, as I did for the first time tonight, keep your mouth closed. Let's just leave it at that, shall we?
Today, I saw a guy riding a bicycle with a sofa strapped to the back. I kid you not.
Nepali women are STRONG.
"Cheek" in Nepali is not a part of the face or tooshie. It is apparently a very bad word.
I'm told it's rude to offer to help clean up after a meal in a Buddhist household, which is where I'm staying most of my time in Nepal. This could be habit-forming.
There is no such thing as "yak butter." A yak is a male. A female is a dri or a nuk. But the Nepalis use "yak butter" kind of as a joke for (rather, about) us Westerners. I mean, if you try to milk a yak, that's not a teat you're grabbing.
If you're claustrophobic or believe in overpopulation, check this out (took this at Boudha Stupa yesterday.):
A whistle-blowing, gesturing cop in the middle of traffic in Kathmandu doesn't accomplish anything whatsoever.
I've learned I don't like buffalo curd.
I will return to eating rice and dahl-bat morning and night as of tomorrow, when I return to Pokhara. But I'm not complaining.
Nepalis tell blonde jokes, too.
Twists and Turns of Events in Nepal
I'll give you a condensed version of some of the events that have taken place over the past week or so. Some details I do have to leave out, but perhaps I'll be able to write about them in the future. For now, though, with the search for Aubrey Sacco still underway, I have to be careful what I write.
Then there was the international SAR coordinator from the Red Cross, contacted by the man from the U.N., who was on her way here to oversee this mission. But then she was delayed en route to Nepal. When she did finally get here, she then left the country within 24 hours. That was primarily because of the Air India crash, which required her presence. So she too is out of the picture.
A number of international SAR volunteers also came to Nepal on their own dimes, but they have left, too. I never was able to meet or speak to any of them while they were here because I was not aware of their presence until they'd already gone.
And the Himalaya Rescue Dog Squad Nepal—the team I came here to meet and get to know so I could write about them—they've all now returned to their base in Shyauli Bazaar, along with the dogs. They'd used up all funds sent by sponsors from abroad to travel to and stay in Kathmandu, waiting to be mobilized for the Aubrey Sacco search. So they've now returned to the place in the jungle where they live and train, where they can be with their families, the other squad members, and the rest of the dogs, and have enough to eat from what's grown locally rather than rely on donations to survive in a city.
So, now it's me and Ingo left here in Kathmandu along with a young man from Manchester, England,who's been associated with HRDSN for about 10 years. He flew in from London a few days ago.
I hate to say something like, "Oh, you'll have to read the book" to find out more about Nik, but... well, I'm sure he'll be in the story, along with a number of other key characters in the history, present, and future of the squad and other things that will come of Ingo Schnabel's dream, which he put into action more than 20 years ago here in a very, shall we say, challenging country.
Ingo has met with Aubrey's father, brother, and their Nepali-American guide twice in Kathmandu and then went on two helicopter flights with them. During the second flight yesterday, they landed and spoke to locals in the Langtang area of the Himalaya. Having been here for two decades and on many searches in Langtang National Park, Ingo knows many of the local villagers, speaks their language (not straight Nepali), and knows their culture well enough to connect with them.
[Note: There used to be a video I could share with you that Ingo filmed during the second helicopter flight, but it's no longer available on YouTube or elsewhere that I've found.]
Sherpas from a local trekking company are also involved in this search, as are members of the Nepali army, at least to some degree. But what exactly the army's role is, I don't know. Apparently, they're not very communicative, so I've heard.
I need to make something clear: Nepal is a country where skilled search and rescue work cannot be done by locals without being paid up front. SAR is not funded by taxes, grants, or other government money like in the US and other much more affluent countries, where volunteer SAR professionals are able to spend their own money to participate and where bills associated with rescue—if there are any at all—can be sent out after the fact.
To the contrary, in Nepal, SAR work must be funded by the family and friends of the missing person and perhaps fundraising efforts on their part. The Nepalese have NO money to do this as a voluntary effort, and the conditions under which they usually work—in the highest peaks and jungles in the world—are extreme and inherently dangerous. These local people, both Nepali and long-time foreign transplants like Ingo, know the area, are familiar with the terrain, the flaura and fauna and other hazards, and the people, and they really are vital to a mission like this.
On a related note...
Today, I accompanied Ingo, Karna and Nik to see Chokyi Nima Rinpoche (I've also seen it spelled with an "m"—Rimpoche—and with a double "h"). Huh? you say. Well, a rinpoche is a lama (like the Dalai Lama is a lama) who's said to be clairvoyant. A psychic, if you will. I'm told they've been through the "cycle of life" and have chosen to return to help people. In addition to traditional search and rescue methods, it's common practice for Ingo and others to consult with these lamas when searches become particularly difficult, prolonged, and confusing. I'm told the level of accuracy is extremely high, but I have no personal knowledge of these things.
I've honestly never witnessed anything like what I did today. First, we met with a monk who led us to the rinpoche at Swoyambhu, a large monastery in the middle of Kathmandu, high on a hill. We had to walk to the left of many things on the way (good karma, apparently). We then removed our shoes and entered a small waiting room, where we showed Aubrey Sacco's photo to the monk and provided him with some basic information. He said the rinpoche would need just her name and birth year.
Soon, we were led into another tiny room, and there was the rinpoche, an old man dressed like any other monk. (Ingo later asked me if I noticed his unique ears—ears that only rinpoche have, he said—but I'd been too focused on his face.) In turn, we each crouched down so he could place a red ribbon around our necks, then took a seat on a pad on the floor.
Ingo asked each question in English, which Karna translated in Nepali to the monk. (Ingo speaks Nepali, but nowhere near as well as Karna.) The monk then translated to the rinpoche, who speaks a Tibetan language. The monk would remove three dice from a small container, shake them in his hand, sometimes blow on them, sometimes touch the hand with the dice, eyes closed, to his forehead. He would drop the dice back into the little dish and study them for a long moment and sometimes repeat the process before speaking. He would talk to the monk, and the translations would work in reverse. Sometimes, Karna didn't fully translate back into English because Ingo had understood the monk's Nepali words.
A rinpoche doesn't always speak in a very direct way, so I understand. For example, if someone is no longer alive, he may say something like, "He cannot see" or "I cannot see her," as if her spirit has left. (That was not said today.) Sometimes, a rinpoche may open his eyes and point and say "east" or "west" perhaps.
It'll be very interesting to see how this plays out and then to then compare reality to what the rinpoche said.
I wasn't able to photograph the rinpoche (I didn't even ask, but it would clearly have been inappropriate), but I did take a number of photos today at Swoyambhu and others at back in Kathmandu. Here are just a handful of many... most of which are of people:
What A Long, Strange Trip
I have some time to write now while we wait for an assignment from international SAR coordinator Valerie Chang from the Red Cross, who arrives in Nepal this evening. A number of groups and individuals from various parts of the world are now involved in the search, as well as Nepalis including sherpas from Langtang and the Himalaya Rescue Dog Squad Nepal (HRDSN). Aubrey's father, Paul Sacco, arrived yesterday and went directly to the embassy, I believe.
So, back to the trip from Pokhara to Kathmandu two days ago with Ingo, nine members of the HRDSN, and three beautiful dogs: Maggie and Hunter, both hounds from the US, and Aldo, a German shepherd donated from Germany.
It was the craziest bus trip of my life: eight hours to travel a distance of 200 kilometers. Everywhere I looked was a photo. Every scene was an essay waiting to be written. Every face a portrait. It was overwhelming, especially to someone like me who wishes she could capture every detail and share it all. For now, though, I'm reduced to simple phrases. Kind of an "I spy" of sorts as I leaned my face out the bus window for some hot, moving air and exhaust. I put my sunglasses on to spare my eyes from the dirt and dust.
I spy...
A small, shriveled old woman carrying a woven basket full of river rocks on her rounded back.
A boy herding goats inches from busses passing within inches of each other within inches of the steep drop into the valley below.
Terraced hillsides bright green with rice paddies and corn, rising above a brown river.
Men, women, and children gathered around roadside pipes and spigots, washing dishes, washing clothes, washing themselves.
Women in bright, beautiful clothing, with shiny black hair, working in a dirty construction site with dirty men.
Chickens crossing the busy road, and goats and dogs and cows and ducks.
Water buffalo.
A police checkpoint, where we have to stop.
Women in saris and high heels on the backs of motorbikes, their bright silky scarves billowing out behind them.
Mud houses with thatched roofs.
Garbage.
Piles of brick, piles of stone, piles of bags of concrete mix, sand bags.
Hills in front of bigger hills in front of mountains in front of bigger mountains disappearing into the white, steamy haze.
Flowers in fuchsia, red, yellow, white, lavender, and purple.
Trees ablaze in orange, their drooping branches heavy with large blooms.
Exotic women walking hand in hand and arm in arm, carrying parasols down flower- and trash-lined streets.
Shop after shop after shop after shop, all open-faced, so many of them so much alike.
Street vendors, squatting next to their wares, spread on cloths at the edge of the road;
Bright, silky, sparkling, woven, and woolen fabrics; baskets; shoes and sandals; piles of cabbage, tomatoes, melons, hot peppers; eggs in large, open cartons; beaded jewelry; clothing; purses; woven rugs; caged chickens; sacks of spices; bread; incense; sunglasses; sugary candies; warm bottled coke; white, purple, brown, and red potatoes; statuettes; cigarettes; bunches of green bananas, and heaps of mango.
Creaking carts pushed by weathered people.
Street dogs sleeping in the dirt, on the concrete steps, at the side of the road, in the road.
Women weaving.
Buildings, big and small, with uncovered windows and doors, leading into the blackness.
Traffic jams like puzzle pieces, inches apart.
Banana trees.
Old landslides ending abruptly at the narrow road they once covered.
People standing next to their immobile busses, cars, motorbikes, and trucks, waiting for an accident to clear
Busses bloated with breathing bodies driving through a blast furnace
Four-passenger cars with eight.
Gravel-laden trucks belching black smoke as they creep up the winding hill.
My life passing before my eyes as our bus passes another vehicle again, again on a blind curve.
Rock- and water-filled gorges disappearing into the jungle.
A man clipping his toenails.
A young boy with a dirty face and grease-covered hands fixing some sort of machine.
A man with a tube-shaped hat, carrying a large sack of something slung over his shoulder.
People spitting and snot-rockets.
Children playing a game without toys.
People sitting, doing nothing.
People staring back at me.
And that was the first ten minutes. 👀